It lounges like a great somnolent snake curling amongst the multitude of Basel’s charming fountains, statues and buildings, yet it is the most magnificent feature of all: the Rhine river. It is the origin of everything else in Basel, the city’s growth nourished by the crossing at this vast bend where one of Europe’s largest rivers turns. Upstream it comes from the east, already gathering strength for over 200km. Downstream it flows north, winding another 1000km before emptying into the North Sea. In summer, swimmers submit to its current (Mark — waving — Derya and her boyfriend Robert were among them as you see).

Living next it for two years, we saw its many colours and tempers. Some days in summer, the waters were the clearest of greens, every rock upon the bed visible from the shore. Some days in winter, the waters riled up the snow-filmed banks in a deep and foamy brown. But always it flowed on. One cannot help but feel the drag of time passing ever onwards, moments drifting by never to return. It is a sense entirely distinct from living by the harbour in a city on the ocean — there the tide comes in and out in balanced equilibrium, days come and go in cycles and it is possible to forget that each is different.

But with a river, the flow goes on, endlessly sinking towards the sea.